Back to Normal?

My first visit to Tossa de Mar was preremtory and there were clouds hanging over from the previous day’s storms. So I decided to go and explore it a little further on a cloudless blue day. I drove the lovely wiggly coast road with delight except for a few ks behind a bus and parked where I had last time and set off towards the older part of town. On the way I came across the Ametllers Roman Villa where there had been a posh house, servants’ quarters, a forum and a whole area devoted to vines and presses to make them into wine. And all a century BCE! There were clear signboards in Catalan, Spanish, English and French detailing the various edifices that would have been on site. There were also some interesting mosaics. It’s not Empuries, that massive site further up the coast near L’Escala, which I’ve visited several times, but it made for an interesting half hour.

I then wandered through the very pleasant old town and approached the castle walls. The knee is doing much better with my various new remedies but I’m still not going all the way up there. Narrow streets, lots of bougainvillaea and interesting shop signage seem to be a feature of most towns with a heritage old centre. Tossa was fun and my meanderings, oddly, led me to a bar near the beach for a restorative beer and then along the beach to a restaurant that – from the language I overheard – was frequented by locals. It proved a good choice and presented me with some freshly carved ham with asparagus and seven absolutely huge and juicy prawns. Tossa in the sun is fun so I’m glad I made a second visit.

Back in Lloret I once again had no need of further food but after packing for an early start tomorrow, I went for a stroll into another part of the resort – still not endearing itself to me – and then ended up in the hotel bar where I thought as it’s my last night, I’d better have a cafe and copa. And on a shelf above the bar I spied my favourite tipple Gran Duque de Alba, a brandy of wonderful smoothness and flavour. I was joined by Isabelle and Bruno, also guests at the hotel, who I’d not seen before, but who insited on chatting to me in French for an hour and exchanging WhatsApp details. I’m sure we’ll have no further contact as we talked about trivial matters and knowledge of Spain but it certainly dredged up reasonably coherent French from somewhere – albeit interspersed with the odd Spanish phrase.

It was an early start to drive to Barcelona Airport and return the car. Google maps said it would take 1 hour 28 minutes so I allowed a little more. Thank goodness. The wonderfully clear roads predicted as I started out soon turned red around Barcelona and I began to panic a little about making the car return and the terminal in time for check in with all the warnings I’d carried from my 90 minute wait to get through passport control on the way in. It didn’t help that RecordGo have places at both terminals and I blindly followed SatNav to the wrong one. A five-minute dash got me to Terminal 2 and I was quickly inside seeking the Ryanair desk.

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I did feel a bit fraudulent having asked for assistance on the way out but glad I had, as a wheelchair took me swiftly through a special passport lane and then an 8-person buggy took me straight to the gate where I was the first to board. The flight was on time and my other panic proved unnecessary as I was able to get the Stansted Express to Liverpool Street a bus to London Bridge and a train home. A quick shower and it was back to Stratford East to join Fran for Ava Pickett’s new play Bloodsports. Having not been to a show with Fran for a fortnight before I went off to Spain we now have six evenings in a row in each others’ company. More about the play in the next more leisurely post.

On the move on a day of three halves

Some time ago my friend Rosa, now located in Girona, and I agreed it would be nice to meet up and that the next weekend when we were both available was 19/20 September. Shortly after fixing this, the Guardian Escapes promo offered me seven nights with flights and a hire car for £900 in Lloret de Mar which is less than an hour from Girona.

Just before my departure it transpired that the only day I could meet Daisy and Jerry visiting London from Boston was Tuesday 15. We had a lovely catch up over lunch at the Union Club which Jerry was amazed to find not filled with ancient men with monocles and moustaches – what a disservice films have done to us! We then strolled through Covent Garden to the Sir John Soane Museum to see an exhibition by a Dutch artist I didn’t know. I still don’t as it was closed. However the Hunterian Museum on the opposite side of Lincoln’s Inn Fields was open and proved fascinating and among the many amazing specimens the Hunter brothers collected, it had a modern day area with a film about knee replacement surgery, highly recommended by a former train driver who had had both hips and knees replaced – one down three to go for me! We then went the the Bridge Theatre to see The Orestaia Simon Stone’s riff on Aeschylus. What a piece of theatre! The obligatory glass box set here worked well to contain the pent-up familial emotions on display. Much of the script is produced during rehearsals which the actors interviewed on the Bridge website found equally confusing, stimulating and liberating. How quickly can three and a half hours pass? Very, when the acting, staging and concepts are this good. Brilliant theatre.

Now to the next day. Up early, walk to Lee Station with carry on suitcase and rucksack, bus from London Bridge to Liverpool Street, Stansted Express to the airport all went swimmingly. Except that the toll on my arthritic knee with added burden was considerable, such that I asked Ryanair staff if they could arrange for assistance for me at Barcelona and on my return. A wheelchair, while denting my pride, might get me through the labyrinth more quickly. Part one of day highly satisfactory.

The flight arrived slightly early but no assistance was waiting at the airport. Kind passengers helped my with my cases up the ladder at Stansted and on the ramp at Barcelona. We enter passport control where the content of about a dozen simultaneous flights must have been congregated I use the word carefully – literally thousands of passengers. I accosted an agent, showed him my assistance confirmation email and he jumped me up the queue with a few askance glances but because I was accompanied by a hi-viz jacket wearer it was generally accepted. So my expedited passage through the passport control hall only took ONE HOUR AND THIRTY minutes. Chaos doesn’t describe it. Then the instructions for getting my hire car were incorrect but the dispatchers were immensely sympathetic and helpful. RecordGo rental strong recommend. Sadly I need a double USB C cable to use my phone through the car display, but I set off along the Ronda Littoral through seafront Barcelona with fond memories of many past visits and the happy prospect of some restorative sun on my knee. Part two mostly bad with an uptick at the end.

Short lived. As I reach Barcelonetta the heavens open and the remainder of my ninety minute journey are with wipers at full blast and there is flooding in the many tunnels along the route north to Lloret. We got lucky up here as this morning’s TV images from Valencia demonstrated. I found the hotel first go and luckily it is right opposite a Parking so no more stress there. As it is a hotel largely used by package tours like mine despite its misleading name of The Fifteenth Boutique Hotel it is not what I would normally have chosen. It has a lift, and complete miracle 358 is the first on the right out of the lift. Dee and I used to joke that receptionists had been persuaded always to situate us in the room furthest from the lift. Room 358 is spacious and comfortable with a balcony looking over the pool. After a fairly onerous day, I decide to eat at the hotel rather than exploring in the dark with a few spots of rain still falling. Dinner is a buffet with cuisine from all over the world – none of it done with any finesse. The upside was that they had a bottle of Ramon Bilbao Rioja with which I am perhaps too familiar, but it rounded the day off well. Hasta mañana!