Back to Normal?

My first visit to Tossa de Mar was preremtory and there were clouds hanging over from the previous day’s storms. So I decided to go and explore it a little further on a cloudless blue day. I drove the lovely wiggly coast road with delight except for a few ks behind a bus and parked where I had last time and set off towards the older part of town. On the way I came across the Ametllers Roman Villa where there had been a posh house, servants’ quarters, a forum and a whole area devoted to vines and presses to make them into wine. And all a century BCE! There were clear signboards in Catalan, Spanish, English and French detailing the various edifices that would have been on site. There were also some interesting mosaics. It’s not Empuries, that massive site further up the coast near L’Escala, which I’ve visited several times, but it made for an interesting half hour.

I then wandered through the very pleasant old town and approached the castle walls. The knee is doing much better with my various new remedies but I’m still not going all the way up there. Narrow streets, lots of bougainvillaea and interesting shop signage seem to be a feature of most towns with a heritage old centre. Tossa was fun and my meanderings, oddly, led me to a bar near the beach for a restorative beer and then along the beach to a restaurant that – from the language I overheard – was frequented by locals. It proved a good choice and presented me with some freshly carved ham with asparagus and seven absolutely huge and juicy prawns. Tossa in the sun is fun so I’m glad I made a second visit.

Back in Lloret I once again had no need of further food but after packing for an early start tomorrow, I went for a stroll into another part of the resort – still not endearing itself to me – and then ended up in the hotel bar where I thought as it’s my last night, I’d better have a cafe and copa. And on a shelf above the bar I spied my favourite tipple Gran Duque de Alba, a brandy of wonderful smoothness and flavour. I was joined by Isabelle and Bruno, also guests at the hotel, who I’d not seen before, but who insited on chatting to me in French for an hour and exchanging WhatsApp details. I’m sure we’ll have no further contact as we talked about trivial matters and knowledge of Spain but it certainly dredged up reasonably coherent French from somewhere – albeit interspersed with the odd Spanish phrase.

It was an early start to drive to Barcelona Airport and return the car. Google maps said it would take 1 hour 28 minutes so I allowed a little more. Thank goodness. The wonderfully clear roads predicted as I started out soon turned red around Barcelona and I began to panic a little about making the car return and the terminal in time for check in with all the warnings I’d carried from my 90 minute wait to get through passport control on the way in. It didn’t help that RecordGo have places at both terminals and I blindly followed SatNav to the wrong one. A five-minute dash got me to Terminal 2 and I was quickly inside seeking the Ryanair desk.

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I did feel a bit fraudulent having asked for assistance on the way out but glad I had, as a wheelchair took me swiftly through a special passport lane and then an 8-person buggy took me straight to the gate where I was the first to board. The flight was on time and my other panic proved unnecessary as I was able to get the Stansted Express to Liverpool Street a bus to London Bridge and a train home. A quick shower and it was back to Stratford East to join Fran for Ava Pickett’s new play Bloodsports. Having not been to a show with Fran for a fortnight before I went off to Spain we now have six evenings in a row in each others’ company. More about the play in the next more leisurely post.

What next?

After a fabulous weekend with Rosa what shall I do now? Well I have never been to Malgrat de Mar which is quite close and will give me a full house of “de Mars” added to Lloret and Tossa. A further attraction is that Malgrat has a funicular. We have ridden funiculars down from Buda to Pest, up Montjuic in Barcelona, in Bilbao to Artxanda, to Monte Igueldo in San Sebastián and that funny street lift in Lisbon so the funicular called to me. Malgrat is a pleasant sleepy town – at least at this time of year – with a nice church square and a fine beach. One small problem is the railway that you have to cross through an underpass to get to the promenade.

After a pleasant stroll along the beach coffee called so I made my way back under the tracks and into town. There was a fine modernisme town hall and cool streets with a view of the funicular at the end.

The funicular leads up to a park where a tower remains as evidence of a one-time castle. There were still quite a few steps so I was glad of the initial mechanical uplift. Fine views out over the town and the bay made the journey worthwhile.

And in the square at the foot of the funicular was Restaurant Barrica which provided a fine gazpacho and a large and tasty slice of salmon with asparagus and a good glass to accompany it.

It made for a good quiet morning outing and I got back, parked up arrived at Lloret’s cultural centre in time to watch a youth community group rehearsing on a stage across the brutalist plaza. I mooched into the centre for an evening beer but after an excellent lunch had no further need of food today.

Good P & P &P

So Saturday was a lovely day in the city and we had a brilliant meal at a (P&P) Posh and Pricey restaurant. Sunday introduces three new Ps – Pubol, la Pera and Playa de Pals.

Salvador Dali bought and restored a castle for his wife Gala in the hamlet of Pubol. I had visited it twice many years apart and had always found it fascinating. Gala accepted it as a gift from Salvador on one condition: he only ever visited at her invitation. Their’s was a very strange relationship! This was Rosa’s first visit and she was enthralled by the place. We would both find it very easy to live there. It is not too big overall but has spacious rooms, modern facilities like phones, TV, a fabulous 50s record player and a fridge. It also has a lot of Dali features, painted or installed by him as he converted the ruin. There is a Cadillac car and a horse-drawn carriage and several photographs of Gala in various poses around the house – one of which we recreated. There was a temporary exhibition of shoots for Vogue magazine with Dali and the photographer Horst.This too was fascinating with contact sheets from the sessions and the final magazine pages. Real insights into the creative process.

And the densely overgrown garden has concrete elephants and a pool dedicated to Wagner (good man).

The village of Pubol has a couple of very Posh restaurants. However the whole of Spain eats lunch with extended families on Sunday so we were tolerated for a beer and a mineral water but not for lunch. So we head for La Pera the next village where the SatNav tries to take us up a no entry and then does take us into a cul-de-sac where we have to do a multipoint (I lost count) turn and then the nearest parking involved reversing close to a precipice – Rosa nobley got out to shout stop as appropriate. We then walked up the no entry and found a very unposh bar that gave us a fine lunch of croquettes, grilled artichokes and a rose wine so nice Rosa photographed the bottle for future reference. It is very rare to get really bad food and service anywhere in Spain apart from the tourist hotspots. Local, unfussy bars like this are usually reliable and friendly.

Rosa had booked us tickets for a concert in Girona at 6 pm so, with a few hours to spare,I suggested a trip to Pals beach for a brief wander along the strand. It is always good to see the sea. We both agreed that Pals village had been over-restored so as to become almost a film set. However, Rosa did not know that it had an eight kilometre beach. So we drove there a walked a bit and then made our way back to Girona for the gig.

Pals beach with the Islas Medas special marine environmental area in the distance. Great diving!

The concert was being given by the Catalan Community Gospel Choirs and we didn’t really have much idea of what to expect. I was glad to visit the Auditori de Girona, a modern edifice at the edge of the big tree lined park on the north side of the city – La Devesa – which is a real Girona landmark. We are both amazed by the number of people arriving and the distance away we had to park. Poor crowd management meant long queues and a late start! They were probably as surprised as us!

The concert itself was an evening of rollicking fun. There were eight choirs from all over Catalonia who had been part of a workshop weekend with a renowned gospel singer Colin Vassell. 250 people filed onto the stage all wearing CCGC tee shirts and filled with enthusiasm for their task. They were accompanied by a great band with keyboards, bass guitar and drums on one side of the stage and pairs of trumpets, trombones and saxophones on the other. The singing was loud and mostly in unison but it was very affecting and they managed to get the majority of the audience – and the hall holds 1200 – on their feet and dancing and certainly clapping along – us too – to many of the songs. It is a good thing when you go in with low expectations and come out with a buzz and a smile. No it wasn’t the highest quality musical experience of the year but seeing so many people having the time of their lives is infectious.

We wandered back to the distant car with broad smiles and I dropped Rosa off close to her home before making my way back to Lloret. After all Rosa is now on an employment sabbatical and two late nights would not be good before Monday morning back at work. I really enjoyed exploring places with her and introducing her to some she didn’t know. I did have a house here for seven years and came back again with Dee a few times after that had to go; so I do have some knowledge of the area. It is a truly beautiful part of the world. Super weekend! Thanks Rosa!

Giro de Girona

Although we met for dinner on Thursday, the prime purpose of this trip for me was to spend a weekend with Rosa in her new home in Girona. The drive up on Saturday morning was easy and I had, thanks to local advice, prebooked a car park space close to Rosa’s apartment. Number plate recognition raised the barrier, shared location on Google maps allowed Rosa to come and find me. Oh the technology!

Her apartment is brilliantly situated in the old town – 5 minutes from the market, and well placed for bars and restaurants. We stopped for a coffee on the way and I learned that Girona is a training hub for serious cyclists – police impeded my progress a couple of times so that a peloton could emerge on they up from Lloret. And the cafe we stopped at was full of them.

Having dropped off my bag, we headed off to the not very visually exciting market and bought ingredients for a light lunch. Rosa’s flat is in a fabulous old building and is very comfortable and she is an excellent host. We sauntered through the old streets admiring the graphics on shopfronts and their contents!

Before eating however we had to take a typical Girona pre-lunch vermut. Not a regular drink of mine but most enjoyable with olives and crisps with a Tabasco style sauce. We later added a delicious little tin of cockles. It is a good thing to have someone with whom to explore local customs. And on the way back we booked a table in Safo restaurant for the evening.

The plan after lunch back at Rosa’s, was to visit the Girona Museum of Art which Rosa had not yet managed since moving here. The Museum is misnamed. It stands next to the cathedral and should be called the Girona Museum of Religious Art and Artefacts. There were some interesting things on display from many centuries of life in the city. It did not capture our imagination or demand a revisit any time soon. Rosa had thoughtfully found us a sloping route up since the cathedral steps well outrank the Spanish steps in Rome and are apparently often featured in Game of Thrones. It did give us an opportunity for a selfie looking across the city to the mountains in the distance.

We wandered back with a stop for a beer and a pass by a shop that used to sell a brilliant range of automata of which Jo has quite a collection. Sadly no more clockwork toys. We did venture into a few other shops and this gave us a chance to look at the buildings along the river Onyar which I remember with affection for their colourful reflections and sense of peace.

The choice of restaurant for tonight was important for Rosa who suffers a little from the conservatism of some of her new friends. With a taste for good food she would head for P&P bars and restaurants which would be spurned by her mates as too Posh and Pricey. Safo was one such although not so pricey. The food was exquisite – a pâté so runny I asked for a spoon to load it onto tacos, roasted polenta that was the best texture and taste combination ever with a salad – now here’s service! I asked if the leaves included spinach and was shortly presented with my personal salad which the chef confirmed had no spinach. Wow! Posh! Then a rarity for me and a first for Rosa – veal sweetbreads which were in a divine sauce. Big thanks to Safo for a superb dinner with an excellent organic local rosat wine to accompany it.

We had eaten quite early by Spanish standards but the night was not over as friends John and Noellie had been at a friend’s gig nearby and were up for meeting for a nightcap. We tried to get onto the roof terrace of the Roca Brothers posh hotel by I suspect my shorts and polo shirt proved improper dress. However a happy hour was spent on the terrace of a Georgian restaurant Qvevri at which wine and snacks were taken by some and a huge meringue-cum-Eton mess that satisfied Rosa’s craving for something sweet which she had been denied by my aversion to puddingy things. It looked amazing and was devoured by the three sweet eaters. It was a real delight to meet John and his wife. I knew that John had worked with Rosa on some of her arts projects and we had a fine chat until well past midnight when a scowling proprietress indicated it was closing time. Having slightly failed to clock locations as we tried to find the right place, before I knew it we were back at Rosa’s setting up the sofa bed and retiring after a fabulous day in Girona.

Nostalgia trip

I decide to visit Tossa de Mar just up the coast. But what a great coastal drive – hairpins, dips and tunnels – super stuff. And the sun was out requiring driver sunnies! Tossa is so much (sorry) classier than Lloret. I resisted the Alicante imperative to visit the castle given the streams of people zigzgging their way up. My only quibble was that the useful boardwalk was plastic! Please! Parking was easy, coffee was good and the sun was out. Fairly flat walking but one or other medication seems to be working.

Back in the car it’s off up the much improved coast road to Palamos. I remember one trip a few years back when I had to stop for my friend Ada to get out and throw up as the curves got to her. The road while still exciting is a bit smoother now! Palamos harbour is a lovely mix of working fisherfolk and trendy yacht folk. But I always enjoy a stroll around the fine waterfront. It does have a touristy bit but you can exclude that.

Then it is off to Begur on a familiar road but again much improved since I was here regularly back in the eighties and early nineties. Dual carriage makes the previous lethal overtaking – especially in a UK drive car – less common and I arrive to see that our nearest Ceramica is now closed and is now a repository for rusting mechanical diggers etc. Shame – we bought a few things there. Worse, the restaurant next to the Spar is no more. How many meals have we taken there after the drive through France? No menu just what was good that day. So down through Sa Fontansa to drive by our house. We sold it to a Dutch couple and they must have led a veritable invasion. There are more yellow NL plates than Spanish on the roads around here. Since we sold up they have added a pool and an extension so it is quite a place now. And as so often there were men working in the garage – come back Paco Heredia!

Begur still holds its charm with the castle and historic centre and its lovely bays surrounding it. I head off to one of these Sa Tuna for lunch on the promenade. Clams with bacon and garlic go down well with some fresh bread and a cool glass of local Catalan rosat wine – again just the one. Just after Dee’s father died we brought her mother with us on a trip to France and Spain and rented the little blue shuttered cottage on the left for a blissful week’s holiday.

Then back to Begur for a post-lunch coffee. I was really, stupidly, pleased to find the shop where I used to buy our daily bread, the Fleca La Palma, still in operation. The church and the main square are still as I remember them – a few new names on bars and restaurants but many that provided good times in the past are still in business.

We always had a soft spot for Torroella de Montgri – Dee and I once climbed to the top of the castle on the mont. Today it was just a wander through the streets and a glass of zero beer (ugh! Too sweet) in the square before returning to the car to find a ticket as I didn’t check that parking was no longer free between 2 and 6 as it used to be. Times change after 20 odd years.

The drive back to Lloret through a surprisingly still fairly green Ampurdan plain was pleasant. The rice fields at Pals had all been harvested perhaps a little earlier than usual. Rosa later explained that after the hot summer there had been quite a lot of rain, as I saw on Wednesday, so things had greened up a bit. The journey was easy except for a slow re-entry to Lloret with evening traffic, giving me time to admire the Queen Vic and the Monster Disco – no I won’t – have a quick shower and head for a nearby bar for a light supper of anchovies and aubergine with honey and a little wine with alcohol.

A better day two

I started out with a few aims: 1: call Rosa to arrange the weekend; 2: find stronger painkillers than paracetamol; 3 buy a USB C double to connect phone to car; 4: sun.

A call to Rosa proves better than expected – she is happy to meet for dinner tonight. I research a few places half way between Lloret and Girona and am delighted when Rosa selects Ca la Manela in Caldes de Malavella. Spain must have a farmacia for every ten people and the first one I encounter is organic/non chemical so I have some potion specially for joints. It has my knee on the packet so I buy it. I do however get plan B at a normal chemist later. Both come in a form I have not encountered before – they are sachets that you tear the top off and suck the contents into your mouth. The cable too is acquired from one of the multitude of phone shops and I have SatNav on the big screen. And there is a hint of sun on the beach at Lloret. So far so good.

Lloret is not for me. The Benidorm of the Costa Brava without the extent and height of the tower blocks. I did find a quite nice church but no casc antic that makes so many towns interesting. I walked the streets filled with gift shops, ceramics and how ever many watch shops. How are the Spanish renowned for a mañana attitude with so many options to keep them to time? And it dawned on me that Lamine Yamal is the new Messi given the almost total absence of other players’ strips parading the promenade and tourist traps. I found a square away from the front for a coffee and another local place for some tapas and then headed out of town for my planned dinner with Rosa.

I had stayed at the Vichy Catalan spa in Caldes de Malavella on my 2017 newly widowed sort-myself-out trip and, while small, it has some fine buildings and a good restaurant. As I was there well before our booking time at 20:30, I was able to explore further and discovered that the mineral water it is famed for was originally discovered by the Romans in 300 BCE. The Roman Baths are free to enter and proved an interesting wander for half a hour with some good multilingual explanatory display boards, charting is uses and misuses through the centuries/until the nineteenth century vogue for “taking the waters” gave the town a whole new commercial life. I think there are half a dozen companies the most famous of which is Vichy Catalan. And despite some very threatening clouds over the mountains I did get some sun with a green tea in the square watching much coming and going of the local populace.

There was a convenient free parking space two minutes from the restaurant in which I think I had a quick lunch ten years ago. It seemed much expanded and had an attractive menu from which we were encouraged to order far too much food. On enquiring what the portion sizes were the patron’s hands indicate a cazuela or saucer size. When they game they were charger sized and I am afraid there was some waste of very tasty seafood and grilled vegetables. I think the meal was unique in my history in that we each consumed one glass of verdejo as we both had to drive back.

It was a lovely evening catching up and making plans for the weekend in Girona. As a conceptual artist, often waiting for the next commission, Rosa is taking a sabbatical into the world of work with a 10 till 2 and 4 till 8 Spanish hours job which she finds wonderfully liberating being allocated tasks and timescales to achieve. Fortunately I did have a glass of last night’s Ramon Bilbao to render the evening a bit more normal.

On the move on a day of three halves

Some time ago my friend Rosa, now located in Girona, and I agreed it would be nice to meet up and that the next weekend when we were both available was 19/20 September. Shortly after fixing this, the Guardian Escapes promo offered me seven nights with flights and a hire car for £900 in Lloret de Mar which is less than an hour from Girona.

Just before my departure it transpired that the only day I could meet Daisy and Jerry visiting London from Boston was Tuesday 15. We had a lovely catch up over lunch at the Union Club which Jerry was amazed to find not filled with ancient men with monocles and moustaches – what a disservice films have done to us! We then strolled through Covent Garden to the Sir John Soane Museum to see an exhibition by a Dutch artist I didn’t know. I still don’t as it was closed. However the Hunterian Museum on the opposite side of Lincoln’s Inn Fields was open and proved fascinating and among the many amazing specimens the Hunter brothers collected, it had a modern day area with a film about knee replacement surgery, highly recommended by a former train driver who had had both hips and knees replaced – one down three to go for me! We then went the the Bridge Theatre to see The Orestaia Simon Stone’s riff on Aeschylus. What a piece of theatre! The obligatory glass box set here worked well to contain the pent-up familial emotions on display. Much of the script is produced during rehearsals which the actors interviewed on the Bridge website found equally confusing, stimulating and liberating. How quickly can three and a half hours pass? Very, when the acting, staging and concepts are this good. Brilliant theatre.

Now to the next day. Up early, walk to Lee Station with carry on suitcase and rucksack, bus from London Bridge to Liverpool Street, Stansted Express to the airport all went swimmingly. Except that the toll on my arthritic knee with added burden was considerable, such that I asked Ryanair staff if they could arrange for assistance for me at Barcelona and on my return. A wheelchair, while denting my pride, might get me through the labyrinth more quickly. Part one of day highly satisfactory.

The flight arrived slightly early but no assistance was waiting at the airport. Kind passengers helped my with my cases up the ladder at Stansted and on the ramp at Barcelona. We enter passport control where the content of about a dozen simultaneous flights must have been congregated I use the word carefully – literally thousands of passengers. I accosted an agent, showed him my assistance confirmation email and he jumped me up the queue with a few askance glances but because I was accompanied by a hi-viz jacket wearer it was generally accepted. So my expedited passage through the passport control hall only took ONE HOUR AND THIRTY minutes. Chaos doesn’t describe it. Then the instructions for getting my hire car were incorrect but the dispatchers were immensely sympathetic and helpful. RecordGo rental strong recommend. Sadly I need a double USB C cable to use my phone through the car display, but I set off along the Ronda Littoral through seafront Barcelona with fond memories of many past visits and the happy prospect of some restorative sun on my knee. Part two mostly bad with an uptick at the end.

Short lived. As I reach Barcelonetta the heavens open and the remainder of my ninety minute journey are with wipers at full blast and there is flooding in the many tunnels along the route north to Lloret. We got lucky up here as this morning’s TV images from Valencia demonstrated. I found the hotel first go and luckily it is right opposite a Parking so no more stress there. As it is a hotel largely used by package tours like mine despite its misleading name of The Fifteenth Boutique Hotel it is not what I would normally have chosen. It has a lift, and complete miracle 358 is the first on the right out of the lift. Dee and I used to joke that receptionists had been persuaded always to situate us in the room furthest from the lift. Room 358 is spacious and comfortable with a balcony looking over the pool. After a fairly onerous day, I decide to eat at the hotel rather than exploring in the dark with a few spots of rain still falling. Dinner is a buffet with cuisine from all over the world – none of it done with any finesse. The upside was that they had a bottle of Ramon Bilbao Rioja with which I am perhaps too familiar, but it rounded the day off well. Hasta mañana!

August unfolds

August started well with an invitation to my granddaughter’s18th birthday party. Daisy could at last legally buy a pint and I enjoyed a few with her and many other family members and friends in the Shortlands Tavern. It has recently implemented an “No under 21s after 8pm” rule after recent troubles with young people. My daughter thinks these were largely self-inflicted by putting televisions everywhere and staying open late during the World Cup and encouraging a younger clientele. We were not ushered off the premises but chose to leave around nine after a good evening of catching up. Daisy and the family had just returned from a fabulous trip to Vietnam and Cambodia about which I heard lots of good things.

The next Sunday saw another trip to the Royal Albert Hall to a concert by the Orchestra of the Age of Enlightenment. I had arranged to dine with Frances in the Queen’s Arms the lovely nearby pub where we had missed Dani Howard on the previous Sunday’s Prom trip. There are still no trains into Charing Cross from Lee so I thought a bus from Victoria to the RAH would be easy. Not so. The National March for Palestine had caused a massive gridlock around Hyde Park Corner – no problem with that a worthy cause – but a TFL guy advised that he couldn’t say when the next 52 bus would make it down to Victoria. There were two other concert goers who were anxious about making the trip as they wanted to catch the Hockney at Serpentine North before the concert – I just wanted to get to the pub to meet Frances. So I suggested a taxi. They were worried about cost but finally we agreed and were joined by a fourth passenger so all costs were shared.

By a brilliantly circuitous route the driver contrived in good time to drop three of us at the hall and took the fourth woman on to her home on Kensington High Street – raised eyebrows were met with “I downsized a big house into a tiny postage stamp flat!” Good food, wine and conversation ensued and we made our way to the hall.

The OAE development team had suggested we might like to join them for a pre-concert or interval drink at their box. We headed there to find that only white wine was on offer. In a piece of noble generosity my friend Luka whizzed off to source some red as Fran and I had not wished to switch from our dinner tipple. Thanks Luka – much appreciated! Some very interesting conversations with other guests included music, lack of arts funding and cricket. The concert itself was excellent. I had never heard of, let alone heard music by, Zelenka. He was admired by Bach and Telemann and I enjoyed his Misere for its brooding intensity and varied choral writing but especially for the soprano lines for Erin Morley who was in brilliant form in this piece and in two Mozart concert arias. In between Peter Whelan directed the OAE in a performance of Mozart’s Masonic Funeral Music a rather strange requiem for a fellow mason as indeed was Zelenka’s piece. It was a very engaging first half with the band on great form under a conductor they love working with. The second half was devoted to Hadyn’s Nelson Mass where Erin Morley was joined by Helen Charlston, Guy Cutting and William Thomas. Both Helen and Guy are graduates of the Rising Stars programme through which the OAE helps so many young singers progress their careers. While Erin Morley has the lion’s (esses’?) share of the arias, the other voices worked well to provide us with a thoughtful version of this complex work with its low strings and drums contrasting with steely blasts from the trumpets and lush orchestral ensemble passages. Another great evening at the Proms.

Erin Morley, Helen Charlston, Peter Whelan, Guy Cutting and William Thomas receive applause

The next trip was to catch up with Adrian Lester and Susannah Fielding in Cyrano which has transferred from Stratford to the Noel Coward Theatre in St Martin’s Lane. I met Fran again for a pre-theatre snack in the excellent Barrafina in Adelaide Place – wonderfully convenient for Charing Cross station which is today again receiving trains from Lee for the first time in a month. Barrafina staff are chatty, the food superb and the wine slipped down nicely. As did the play. I’ve always known Adrian Lester was a great actor but this performance was outstanding and backed up by a superb cast of actors and musicians who roamed around the theatre throughout a really funny and emotional evening. As someone who likes playing with words, I loved this adaptation by Debris Stevenson and director Simon Evans which absolutely crackled with one-liners, classy put downs and truly duff verse as well as some emotional interplay in the love triangle. Brilliant!

You know you are getting old when the NHS offers you a vaccination against a virus you’ve never heard of. I looked up RSV and found that it was respiratory syncytial virus and the vaccination is intended for “older adults and newborn babies”. So I’m now worried that I’m entering Shakespeare’s seventh age and will finish up “sans teeth, sans eyes, sans taste, sans everything”. As an asthmatic anyway I thought I’d better do it and discover that the nearest pharmacy I can attend is in Downham Way which “sans car” is an exciting two-bus ride away.

It all worked out fine and to date, the possible flu-like symptoms I was warned of haven’t materialised and my weak lungs have some extra protection. And I had a trip as a passenger through some of the less familiar parts of southeast London.

BBPC is working with New Cockney Poets towards an event on 4 October to commemorate the 90th anniversary of the Battle of Cable Street when the East End rose to repel Owald Mosley’s fascists from marching through the area. So we set our participants the theme of East End Identity for this session’s poems. Some wrote on the day, some had prepared poems ahead of the meeting and others who couldn’t attend sent in their poems. Inspiration came from a film of the action back in 1936 with first hand commentary from a particpant and from the Cable Street mural.

My friend Jadwiga and I celebrate each others’ birthdays with a lunch. We share a date 19 but are two months apart. Because of lots of other commitments we celebrated mine in August at Ognisko, Jadwiga’s favouriite Polish restauarant in Exhibition Road. After a surprisingly hot beetroot soup – we both expected it to be cold – I then had a rabbit leg in mixed vegetables and Jadwiga who doesn’t eat meat had smoked salmon blinis.

Our tradiiton is then to walk up and view the current year’s Serpentine Pavilion. Unfortunately it was closed for a private event so we could only admire the fine red brickwork of its construction. Designed by LANZA atelier from Mexico City the design is known amusingly as a crinkle-crankle wall. The serpentine nature of the wall apparently gives it more stability and uses fewer brisks. It is certainly very curvy and has some bricks with inttricate patterns baked in. We weren’t able to experience its translucent canopy roof so had to make do with the website images for the effect.

What we did discover was a new artist in the Gallery. We had to admit that neither of us knew anything about Cecily Brown a Btritish born painter who trained at the Slade and moved to the USA in 1994. They are mostly very large colourful canvases close to abstraction. However as you look closer there are humans, animals and especially fallen logs over streams in a reccurring series of “Nature Walks”. She applies paint in very thick broad strokes in the majority of works here but we both really liked some of her smaller works, These are mainly monotypes, that is one-off prints, not editions, to which she adds pen and ink drawing, crayon and pastels to great effect. I found these really interesting in subject matter and technique. An unexpected pleasure that rounded out the birthday treat very nicely.

Another cross south London multi-bus trip found me at the gate of the Dulwich Picture Gallery. A couple of weeks ago Lucy Nicholson, herself a renowned photographer, recommended the exhibition Portrait of a City which showcases over 100 images of urban life in the USA from 1907 to 2012. Many are by well-known photographers like Diane Arbus, Saul Leiter, Alfred Stieglitz, Helen Levitt and Bruce Anderson and many by others I hadn’t heard of. The photographs themselves were all worthy of a long look just as images but build a dramatic impression of urban life in America over the century. There were some interesting film clips too.Thanks for the tip Lucy.

More bus journeys took me from Dulwich to the Southbank Centre for a talk by a favourite Japanese writer Mieko Kawakami. I debated taking a photo of her book titles in my Kindle to sign but decided that would not be cool. Her talk was fascinating covering her own rather deprived background, her writing style and choice of themes – all quite different so far in the five books I’ve read. Then a large chunk of the evening was devoted to talking about Murakami and translation. The description of the collaboration with translators and the degree of trust involved was very insightful. At one point she said that Jay Rubin, who has translated a lot of Murakami, was of the opinion that Murakami’s translation into Japanese of Catcher in the Rye was better as a read than Salinger’s original – quite a claim. Mieko also talked with admiration of Murakami’s beautiful Japanese. She was funny – you knew when a joke was coming because the Japanese in the room laughed before the superb interpreter, whose name I didn’t catch, – could deliver the English equivalent. A fascinating evening and some re-reading to be done withn new perspectives on the books.

The arrival of a new Almodovar film is a real incentive to venture into Picturehouse Central for a treat. His latest is Amarga Navidad – Bitter Christmas in English. A recurring theme in his later work has been the blurring of fiction and reality. How ethical is it to steal someone else’s life story for your script? As always, the sets and wardrobe are strikingly colourful and chic. The acting is emotionally powerful and the split era timescale works well with tragic events of 2004 being purloined for eminent director Raul’s (Leonardo Sbaraglia) 2025 script.

Relationships across genders are vivdly drawn and the close friendships of the female characters contrast with the more withdrawn males. The execption here is the brilliant Patrick Criado a firefighter who moonlights as a stripper in brilliant glitzy underpants who is supportive of the panic attack prone commercials director Elsa, played by Barbara Lennie. In a gender swap Elsa is Raul’s alter ego in the modern day script. The parallel stories intertwine in an intriguing way and as so often music plays an important part – Alberto Iglesias’ score won the Soundtrack Award at the Cannes Film Festival and a haunting Mexican song from Chavela Vargas makes an impact. This is not Almodovar’s best work but I found it riveting throughout and with Madrid at Christmas and the black sand of Lanzarote as locations and his brillinat designers’ sets, props and costumes it are always visually as well as intellectually and morally interesting.

After the film, I popped into Yoshino to pick up my supply of gyokuro and apart from the usual delightful catch up with Lisa, I had the bonus of seeing Shoko who had come to the Prom a couple of weeks ago that featured Dani Howard’s concerto for brass Signal. Shoko had been away in Poland for a week and is now back in London where she works at a Japanese bank. Both these women are delightful company and a longer session at Yoshino where food as well as beer will be taken is planned. Shoko approved of my current reading – a hilarious, scary, futuristic satire called Tokyo-to Dojo-to or The Sympathy Tower Tokyo. She doesn’t completely share my love of Murakami finding his “beautiful Japanese” (Meiko Kawakami) prose quite hard going sometimes.

A Month in the Country is Ivan Turgenev’s most famous (only performed) stage work although there have been adaptations for the stage of several of his novels including Fathers and Sons also by Brian Friel whose version I just saw at the Donmar. I have seen the play before but it was difficult to tell whether what the audience shared was more Turgenev or Friel. OK, the plot was Turgenev with the pampered, moody Natalya longing for a true connection, preferably with a younger beau, from her loveless marriage – very Nordic, with echoes of Strindberg, Ibsen and of course Chekhov. However the latter comparison is retrospective as this play predates his better known compatriot’s theatre debut by 25 years. As we enter we find a leafy glass box through which said Natalya peers out from her symbolic prison – a little heavy perhaps. No complaints with the rest of the production though. It moves swiftly through the scenes with the box descending as a marker. The sets are sparse with lots of very wafty grasses and minimal furniture. Natalya’s gowns are exquisite – hats off to the design team – and the other cast wardrobe well chosen for their characters. But that’s all surface, what about the play?

Sophie Okonedo can seemingly do no wrong. She gives a faultless performance as the sneering and demanding diva Natalya and as the pleading and needy would-be mistress. Just brilliant! Alastair Petrie was also outstanding as the spurned but devoted lover-in-waiting, Patrick Gibson was a revelation as the young tutor Alexey by turns falling in and out of love with both Natalya and her ward Vera in a nuanced performance. I couldn’t fault any of the supporting cast who are too many to list – it’s a big cast for a small space – but they all do justice to Friel’s witty adaption. Oh did I mention that it is sidesplittingly funny? I was sitting behind critic Mark Lawson whose frequent guffaws should guarantee a good review. It’s an evening about love and marriage – the first both requited and not and the latter a prison and a promise. I think I wrote that the Donmar’s The Guilty was my play of the year. This runs it close.

This blog started and ends with my granddaughter. For some time Dani Howard and her partner Sion Jones had said they could arrange for Daisy to sit in the pit beside their friend flautist Holly during a performance of Oliver! at the Gielgud Theatre. A great opportunity for work-experience for one about to study music and drama at the Guildford School of Acting. After an early supper in Pasta Evangelsists in Wardour Street, the Addisons and I arranged to meet and make introductions in the Blue Posts pub and then walk to the theatre. Why are there two Blue Posts pubs within about 300 yards of each other? I knew the one in Berwick Street very well from days past when recording voice overs with Chris Timpson at his studio in Duck Lane round the corner. However Dani and Sion were in the one in Rupert Street – even closer to the theatre. Oops! We did meet, chat and become firm friends all round and then Jo, Chris and I went in the front door to take our seats in the stalls while Daisy went in through the stage door. She found it loud – it is remarkable how much noise a 12 piece band can produce – interesting and useful. After the show we then all (minus Jo who had a bit of a headache) gathered at the other Blue Posts for a debrief, some networking and a few drinks before heading off home after a thoroughly entertaining evening.

After the show outside the other Blue Posts

Speed blog

Just had to get down three amazing days. First a trip with Frances to the opening night of the Kilburn High Road Festival at the Kiln Theatre. We had a chance to chat to the creative director Amit Sharma, trustee Alastair Levy, aspiring actors and others with a glass of wine and excellent food before going into the theatre to see All the things we can’t explain. This is a community production in which 80 cast members ranging from ages 6 to 80, open the festival by searching for the beating heart of KIlburn. As with the OAE’s Life of the Sea back in June at the QEH, it is so encouraging to see so many people from diverse backgrounds engaged in the arts. It was a fun piece with lots of dramatic twists, solo turns for just about everybody and brilliantly choreographed movement with all 80 on stage pretty much throughout. It celebrates the ‘people, memories and shared experiences that make a true community’ – and it did. A great initiative from the Kiln as the start of a fortnight’s programme of events in various venues and on the street up and down the High Road. It quite took me back to the 70s when Ian Dury went on tour with his pre-Blockheads band Kilburn and the High Roads.

On Saturday I had the pleasure of meeting up with Rosa, now largely based in Girona so a sadly infrequent culture companion, to see The Tao of Glass at sohoplace. Rosa had expressed a wish to see it in an email so I booked not knowing much about it, but thinking that, as it featured the work of director Phelim McDermott who had done such a brilliant job with My Neighbour Totoro and much earlier Philip Glass’s opera Akhnahten back in 2016, we’d give it a go. Oh so glad we did! It’s a piece of totally indescribable theatrical magic accompanied throughout by a score by Philip Glass played live by a quartet of violin, clarinet, piano and percussion – the latter included a sequence played on kitchen utensils. From its opening scene with a bemused looking Phelim sitting in the front row of the stalls through a series of sequences using puppets, mime, shadow play, music manuscript paper, huge fluorescent-tube-lit rings ascending and descending from the flies, sellotape and both a deconstructed and a self-playing piano and a Dansette record-player, it tells the story of McDermott’s lifelong obsession with Philip Glass and his music. It was truly astonishing and moving.

We both got quite emotional at times as well as belly-laughing. That’s what theatre is all about. And it’s all physical – no green screen, no AI, just an amazing set of people contributing to a wild imagination. It’s rare that a show gets the maximum 4 or 5 stars from every outlet but Tao did. Go see it if you can. It’s on until 12 September.

Rosa was meeting another friend in the evening and I needed to get back to join neighbour two-doors up Pritie Arnolda’s birthday party. She welcomed 150 people with a huge marquee in the garden, wonderful food and ample drinks – soft and otherwise. It was lovely to catch up with other neighbours, new acquaintances and with Pritie and DJ Dom who have been friends since they first moved in with very young children who are now teenagers. And I have another birthday party this week as my granddaughter Daisy turns 18. Where do the years go?

And then I got to see Rosa again on Sunday when a group of us went to see the world premiere of my friend Dani Howard’s Concerto for Brass ‘SIGNAL’ her first commission from the BBC Symphony Orchestra as a composer. Six of us assembled in the Verdi Restaurant for an enjoyable meal before the concert. Unfortunately Dani was in the Queen’s Arms pub round the corner in Queen’s Gate Mews – an old-haunt from her days at the Royal College of Music opposite the Royal Albert Hall and a pub I’ve enjoyed on a few occasions. Her WhatsApp letting me know came too late for me go and see her there and get back for our 6.15 table booking which was quite important as we were welcoming a new friend to the group – Shoko Yamana. Shoko is also a friend of Lisa Maitland who runs Yoshino restaurant. Lisa had met Dani when she, Sion and I went there for dinner back in March when she was working on the Prom commission and Lisa was excited to hear about it. Lisa couldn’t come today as she had to work but suggested that Shoko might enjoy the concert. Fortunately she fitted right into our group and was no stranger to the RAH as this was her fourth prom of the season. But as she said “This is the first time sitting down in the Albert Hall”. Well, she’s very young but two hours standing is not an option for me anymore! She is also a viola player and has travelled widely, so we had a very engaging and interesting pre-concert chat. Shoko joined Jadwiga and her daughter Lucy, Frances, Rosa and me.

But to the main event. Dani’s concerto features the brass sections of the orchestra as groups of soloists rather than having any one instrument out in front with the conductor Paavo Järvi. It has fine passages for strings and woodwind and percussion but it’s the horns, tombones, tuba and trumpets that are the stars of the show. There was some very touching call and response between the sections, lots of her trademark downward slurs and lots of sparkling high notes which sent a tingle through the auditorium. The Guardian reviewer found it as impressive as we did: Bright, celebratory and eminently likable, the music shimmered and frothed, its energetic outbursts crowned with fluttering trumpets and underpinned by sonorous bass trombone and tuba. I really enjoy Dani’s style of composition and listened to the concert again on Monday, It’s on BBC Sounds here with Dani talking about the motivation for the piece and its title Signal symbolising communication. The next item was Tchaikovsky’s Second Violin Concerto a familiar work played by the Greek virtuoso Leonidas Kavakos. It was interesting in parts but failed to fully engage me. His encore of a Bach partita was much more to my taste. After an interval spent entirely queuing for the inadequate loos we heard a complete new work, for me, Scriabin’s Symphony Number 2. It was a final work in 1901 before he became more experimental in works I did know. This reminded me of Mahler, Wagner and Richard Strauss and in one movement with a big storm and calm aftermath of Beethoven’s Sixth Symphony. I thoroughly enjoyed it and all in all it proved a wonderful culmination to a weekend of culture with friends old and new.

Blazing through July

My June ended with a BBPC Bimonthly Meetup and an hour of poetry performance at the Bangla Book Fair at the Brady Arts Centre in Hanbury Street on Sunday 28th. Our theme was Anti-War Poems and seven poets recited in Bengali, Spanish and English. It was a lively session and we received some positive feedback.

So while there’s some football happening in North and Central America which I am boycotting because I loathe Infantino and FIFA – don’t think I’ll be missing much – I have a feast of cricket to enjoy. And more specifically Womens’ Cricket. I’ve been a big fan of this aspect of cricket fuelled perhaps by the success of my home county Hampshire in various guises as Southern Vipers, Southern Brave and just Hampshire. I was lucky enough to be gifted a signed England Womens team shirt for my 80th birthday which hangs proudly on my office wall, thanks to a request from my son-in-law Chris to Charles Dagnall of the Sky and TMS teams.

So when England made it to the semi final of the ICC Womens’ T20 World Cup 2026, it was off to the Oval on 2 July to see England battle it out with South Africa for a place in Sunday’s Final. I was able to meet up with Chris and a producer friend of his Toby Welch who is exec producing on David Mitchell’s Ludwig. After a fine game of cricket we repaired to the Fentiman Arms to discuss cricket, TV and the world was a better place for our deliberations. England made it to the final and Jo had already booked final tickets many months ago so the whole Addison family set off for Lord’s where England were duly demolished by Australia who are still in a different league despite the odd blip, Sadly no blip today.

Then on Monday it was off to the Royal Court Theatre for The Archduke. Yes that one – “the shot that rang out around the world”. The assassination in Sarajevo that is reputed to have started World War I. Except this fascinating take on the story had a chilling resonance with the exploitation of the young and poor that drives the county lines today. Having previously seen Rajiv Joseph’s Bengal Tiger at the Baghdad Zoo, I wasn’t expecting straight history. With many moments of hilarity it also posed serious questions about recruiting vulnerable people to carry out heinous tasks on your behalf – kamikaze pilots, jihadi martyrs spring to mind – history repeats itself with no regard for morality. The acting was superb through comedy and tragedy but Es Devlin’s set was the theatrical coup of the evening.

Photo: Helen Murray Royal Court

More politics on Tuesday with Springwood at Hampstead. This featured the 1939 meeting between King George VI and President Roosevelt to attempt to get the USA to support Britain in the looming Second World War. Robert Lindsay and Gemma Redgrave were POTUS and First Lady with Andrew Havill and Rebecca Knight as Bertie and Elizabeth.

Photograph: Tristram Kenton/The Guardian

It was again very resonant with modern times with Charles III having had to deal with tyrant Trump in the country’s interests. It was Richard Nelson’s third outing with the same material following a 2009 BBC radio play, the 2012 film Hyde Park on Hudson and now Springwood. It’s pretty static in action terms but very lively in mental gymnastics as the two country representatives try to exert pressure – Roosevelt with all the strength, George VI in a weak position of still owing the USA millions from the previous conflict. Robert Lindsay was excellent and Gemma Redgrave matched him but was perhaps a little underwritten.

A gap on Wednesday when a pub lunch trip to the Surrey Hills was cancelled when my oldest schoolfriend called to say he’d tripped awkwardly, broken his ankle and didn’t feel like socialising in a massive ankle boot.

Thursday saw me join Frances at the Donmar Warehouse for certainly the play of the week if not the play of the year. The Guilty by Chloë Moss is based on a Danish film from 2018. It’s getting to be a signature of the Donmar with recent productions Mass, Force Majeure and The Fear of 13 all stage adaptations of films. The Guilty stars Russell Tovey as Joe, a nightime police despatcher, suspended from active duties for reasons that are unclear at the outset. Tovey’s perfomance is outstanding as he struggles to cope with frequent ’emergency’ nuisance callers, real emergencies and his unravelling domestic life. It’s incredibly intense with some relief with humorous moments but the pace of the multiple calls and the several different storylines revealed in just over an hour is astonishing. There’s also a further staggering piece of theatre that I can’t reveal as the show is still running and we were handed a card on exit from the auditorium. It’s sold out but if you can beg or steal a ticket do so. It’s a masterpiece!

After that thrilling night of theatre it’s off to Lord’s again for a unique experience. The first womens’ Test Match is being held at the ground between England and India. Jo and Chris and I were soon joined by BBC Test Match Special statistician Andy Salzman who was enjoying a day off – just watching cricket for his own enjoyment. We saw a good day of proper white-clad cricket with India all out for 285 and England 21 for 1 at the close of play.

50 England women cricketers gather at Lord’s for the first ever womens test match here.

The day started with a historic parade of some 50 former England women cricketers among them the 85 year-old Enid Bakewell who, with help, rang the five-minute bell to get this long-overdue moment underway.

We then had to dash back to the Blackheath Halls where as last year’s winners, Soulstice, the band my grandaughter plays in, had to play a set while the judges deliberated on this year’s contestants. It was a rather sad occasion, possibly their last gig as they are all leaving school and going to different places for uni. They were still brilliant – even better actually – and I said I was going to book the O2 for their 20th reunion in 2046 – I might not be there to supervise. You can hear them on SoundCloud here.

On the Saturday, I’m due to pick up Jadwiga in Putney and take us to Garsington Opera to see Gerald Barry’s The Importance of Being Earnest. But in my new car-free state, I first have to go and pick up a hire car. Fortunately there’s a branch of Switch Car Hire in Mottingham – one train stop down the line and a five minute walk from the station. It’s all very efficient and I set off in a manual (how long has that been!) Citroen Captur. with a little time to spare I did a shop for heavy items before returning home getting into my dinner trousers and shirt – too hot for jackets and set off for Stokenchurch via the south circular and Putney. The car went well the trip out of London was dire but the M40 pretty clear and we arrived in good time to catch the vintage Aldershot and District coach (the compoany that used to take me to school all those years ago) down to the walled garden where in a delightful bonus, our friend Susie Stranders was the accompanist for a recital by two of Garsington’s emerging artists. Miro Treharne is a fine mezzo and Matthew Sotillo-Cooke a lyrical tenor. They encompassed classical repertoire and concluded with a dramatised ‘On the street where you live’. The half hour in the garden was a delightful curtain raiser and we had a chance to spend time with Susie which we all enjoyed.

Miro Treharne, Susie Stranders and Matthew Sotillo-Cooke on the Garsington garden stage.

Then back up to the opera pavilion for the main event. An opera I didn’t know at all but based on a play I knew very well. Would it desecrate Oscar’s work or celebrate it? Well the core was there – false identity, harridan Lady Bracknell (played by a baritone to good effect!), deception and delusion but not necessarily in the same order as in the Wilde play. There was some fine singing of very demanding parts, some stunning visual effects and a set that was out of its mind. I found the score a little disjointed in the first part but grew into something much more engaging in the second with some fabulous moment of drama, humour and joy. And hats off to conductor Douglas Boyd being mugged across the stage to get to the podium. Really entering into the production! Both Jadwiga and I really enjoyed it with a caveat on her part that it shouldn’t be called ‘opera’ there ought to be another category for this kind of event. I disagreed and told her that she was too much of a traditionalist, despite agreeing to come and see it and having a good time.

Earnest stage at Garsington Photo: Richard Hubert Smith Garsington Opera

Music of a very different kind on my actual birthday. With no knowledge of the coming event. I joined Shamim at the Brady Arts Centre for a performance of Nakshi Kanthar Math a dance drama which translates as The Field of the Embroidered Quilt. With projected video, dramatic acting and fine traditional dancing it told the story of a couple separated by a family feud. He, Rupai, travels widely for work, she Saju embroiders the quilt Nakshi Kantha until he returns. Except she dies before he returns and all he finds is the quilt covering her burial site. Echoes of Penelope and Odysseus, Romeo and Juliet were there showing that some stories are universal whatever the language. Shamim and I then went for a lovely birthday dinner, during which admittedly a little work was done preparing for a BBPC project funding bid to the British Council. It entailed quite a few Zoom meetings during the next week. We’ll know in October but it might entail a trip to Dhaka.

Despite the busy week I did find time for a very pleasant lunch at the Union Club with Mike and Joan Addison, Chris’s parents. We hadn’t caught up for a while so grandchildren, opera and cricket were discussed along with worries about us sometimes feeling young amongst audiences at musical events. Where will the future audiences come from?

Well there was no chance of feeling young at my last cultural trip of July. Another of Garsington’s emerging artists this summer was my friend Kristina Ammattil. She was appearing at the Arcola Theatre in Dalston in a double bill called Murder Games. The first half was Cupboard Love a 1950s comic opera by British composer Madeleine Dring with a libretto by D.F. Aitken – well a farce really involving some superb ‘dead body’ acting from Ellie Westbrook. After the interval we were treated to Three Sisters who are not Sisters another short comic opera by American composer Ned Roram with a text by Gertrude Stein. Lots of dashing about and lying dead surrounded by chalk body outlines. Both were written for chamber performance with piano accompaniment which was provided by the music director of the producers Opera Makers Panaretos Kyriatzidis. I found the music in Ned Roram’s piece more interesting and the performances of all the singers was remarkable. Annoyingly they didn’t do a curtain call bow towards my seat so Kristina is distant second from left in red stripey stockings. However the programme had a fine photo of the three sisters Salome Siu, Kristina and Ellie. And we did a selfie to send to my friend and her boyfriend Luka.

We were able to share a drink in the bar – with the benefit of performers’ discount coupons! As well as the cast I was able to talk to Tricia Ninian who I met at St Paul’s Opera gala back in March and engage in a – probably boring for him – lengthy discussion about directing for stage and screen and the differences between them, with the director of this show Jonny Danciger. It was another outing where I didn’t really know what to expect when I set off but ended up having a great night out and meeting some talented and lovely people.